Dargle to Dargle Chapter 1. by Jethro Bronner


Meeting Giants on the way to Bulawayo

Dargle to Dargle Chapter 1. by Jethro Bronner

I left Dargle at the end of June, heading north into a great unknown. People have asked me whether the trip has turned out the way I thought it would. And to be honest it hasn’t. Simply because I didn’t really have any idea what it was going to be like before I left. Sometimes it’s best to put the Lonely Planet Guide down and just take it  as it comes.


The  hero of the story!

The hero of the story!

Zimbabwe, which is mostly described as a cautionary tale, was lovely. There’s a sleepiness and a peace that I enjoyed. I spent a few days in the leafy suburbs of Bulawayo, relaxing and walking in the Matopos National Park. Victoria Falls has the same small town charm, and I missed it hugely once I crossed into Zambia.

Between Zimbabwe and Zambia is the awesome Victoria Falls. I spent a happy moment standing in the spray, as close to the falls as I could get. I was drenched and it was wonderful. To be soaked to the skin in the spray of the falls is a privilege, it’s a wonderful thing. The roar, the wind, the darkness as you’re enveloped in the mist. It’s all perfect.

I battled to find the peace and quiet I had enjoyed in Bulawayo in Zambia. Livingstone and Lusaka seemed to be impatient places. In Lusaka I spent the nights listening to the traffic. I fled in the early morning, to Kapishya, in the North East of the Country, 800km away on the Great North Road. I arrived unannounced but was welcomed and made at home. Kapishya is a pleasant garden of Eden, a green valley of lakes and rivers and a hot spring that can trap you for hours. Mark Harvey, the owner, is a deeply passionate and very entertaining host. I don’t think any trip to Zambia would be complete without a visit to Kapishya.


Jethro and friends - Living the Dream!

  Jethro and friends – Living the Dream!

At Kapishya I decided that I needed to see the ocean, so I set off on a mission to Dar es Salaam. I committed myself to a three day drive across two countries, but it was well worth it. Dar es Salaam has a charming chaos that can suck you in. It’s best to embrace it. I parked my car and adopted local transport while in the city. I found motorcycle taxis and fishing boats were pretty fun and fast ways to get around. I spent most of my time reading on the white sand beaches, looking out at the islands and fishing boats, and partying the night away. If you don’t join in you’ll never get a moments sleep anyway, it’s too loud, so just go with it.Zanzibar is only two hours away from Dar es Salaam. Stone Town does the same double act as Dar, being a lazy, tropical paradise during the day, and a hub of activity at night. Zanzibar is really best experienced from a rented Vespa Scooter, go where the road takes you.

After Dar, I headed North though Bagamoyo, Moshi and Arusha to Nairobi, the Capital of Kenya. It was here that I learned that my plans to pick up an Ethiopian Visa wouldn’t work. A new regulation meant that I could only get a visa at the airport in Addis Ababa (but only single entry) or in my country of residence. I flew home to apply for all my outstanding visas, leaving my car in the care of the Wildebeest Eco Camp in Nairobi. I hope to be on the road again soon, the deserts of Sudan are calling, and I can’t wait for round two, Nairobi to Cairo.